Saturday, August 8, 2020

August 5 (& 6): Daingean to Lock 21

The night in Daingean was very rainy and humid. It also stayed quite warm. I took the dogs out when there was a break in the rain. We were only five minutes into the walk, when it started raining again. The pups were sad when I chickened out and took us back to the boat.

In the morning we discussed whether to continue, or stay for another night. Since everything was closed, we decided to move on. I took the dogs for a nice walk back up the canal the way we had come. There was a long section that was mowed between the canal and the road with a fence to keep us safe. The pups ran around and sniffed. Just after we turned around, it started to rain again (did I mention that we are in Ireland and it can rain even from a blue sky?). It really began to pour there was also quite a wind, so I took shelter behind a tree and stayed mostly dry. After five minutes it was past and we headed home. Sarah was surprised that I wasn't soaked, as she had had to quickly batten down the hatches.

We had been waiting for Andrea to go down for a nap before setting off, but he was determined to stay awake and see all there was to see. So, we finally decided to get under way. The trip was very short. Jimmy had said it was about 2 1/2 hours, but turned out to be just 1 hour (wow, are we fast!). 
 
A rural stretch from Daingean to lock 21, just east of Tullamore



The biggest attraction along the way was a herd of cows which had found their way out of their pasture and onto the canal towpath. They thought we were very interesting and all stared at us as we slowly moved past.


A Curious Herd

We arrived in the early afternoon, and had plenty of time to explore. By the lock was a charming little house with a colorful garden and a beautiful white horse.

Just before the lock, where we stopped, there is an old spur line that leads eight miles north to Killbeggan. It has been closed for 60 years, and is now overgrown with brush and trees. The town of Killbeggan has restored the harbour buildings, and there is an effort to get the line reopened, but Waterways Ireland hasn't managed to get to it. On the plus side, a beautiful cycling trail runs along it for a few kilometers. We took the stroller and the pups and headed out to explore. We walked as far as the next bridge spanning the dry canal. It felt like something out of a fantasy novel.
Manning the wall

That evening was very quiet and the light was beautiful.

The next day we took it easy there at the lock. We discovered that the charming house next to us belonged to Jimmy, the lock keeper who had helped us at lock 20.

Around noon, we walked back to a bakery/cafe, Ballycommon House, by the last bridge we passed. We enjoyed coffees and pastries at the outdoor seating.



Sarah had seen some horses from the boat the day before, and was determined to go back and visit them. So, she took the pups for a ride back along the canal to find them.

Friendly Horses

After she dropped the pups back at the boat, she rode up the Killbeggan trail for a few miles. Then it was my turn, and I took the bike up the trail.

 

Farm Animals along the Canal

Ireland was formerly forested, but trees were cut to make way for farmland. Forests in Ireland were largely gone by around 1800. Today about 70% of Ireland is agricultural land, and agriculture accounts for about a third of the economy. As we pass by farms along the canal, we see many fields of sheep and cows. County Kildare is known for breeding world class race horses. Some cottages may even have a donkey in the front yard, harkening back to an earlier time.

Having lived in Sweden, we were accustomed to being able to wander across fields as we pleased, whether they be inhabited by livestock or not. Here in Ireland, however, it is a bit different. I assume that dogs have caused havoc for many a farmer. We have seen signs posted warning that dogs bothering livestock may be shot. I'm not sure how serious these warnings are, but we have kept Payton and Dagny close just in case.


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